Tools required: Standard handbell tool kit with drift pin and small hammer.
1. Using the hex ball driver supplied, remove the cap screw located at the handle block. This completely disassembles the bell. Be careful not to lose any of the parts, particularly the spacer bushing that goes between the yoke assembly and the casting. Failure to reinsert this bushing could result in a tonally "dead" bell.
2. Using the adjustment wrenches supplied, remove the stop nuts, neoprene bumpers and anti-friction washers.
3. Place the yoke assembly on its side over the open vise (or hole in wooden block) and, using the drift pin, drive out the axle. This frees the shaft from the yoke channel.
4. Before proceeding further, scribe a mark on the bottom of
the shaft and shaft block.
5. Place the shaft assembly over the open vise (or a hole in a block of wood) and, using the drift pin to drive the shaft out of the shaft block (never use pliers to do this as it will damage the shaft and possibly break it).
6. Remove the broken spring and replace it with a new one of the proper size. The springs are numbered for easy replacement.
#7 G2 thru F#3 (for bells shipped after 2-1-85)
#1 C3 thru F#3 (for bells shipped before 2-1-85)
#3 G3 thru G#4 (see Notes B above)
#4 A4 thru B5
#5 C6 thru C7
#6 C#7 thru C8
On bells C#7 and higher a metal spring is used, its number is 10-2023-4. Also available is an elastothane spring for bells C#7 thru C8 for replacement purposes.
7. Keeping in mind that the spring should be at a right angle to the shaft block, place the shaft in the hole in the shaft block, aligning previously applied scribe marks.
8. Using a hammer, gently tap block back onto the shaft. Stop to check frequently that alignment marks and hole for the axle line up. When the shaft bottom and the shaft block are flush, use the drift pin on either side of the block, and hammer the block down tight.
9. Now you are ready to reassemble the shaft assembly to the yoke block. Lay yoke block on its side over an open vise and place shaft assembly in channel, lining up the axle hole in the block with the nylon bearings. If you encounter difficulty in getting the shaft assembly between the nylon bearings, use a blunt nose pliers as a wedge between the nylon bearings and spread the channel slightly.
10. On longer shafts (low bells), support the clapper end of the shaft to aid in lining up holes for the axle. If the holes are not lined up properly, when you drive in the axle it will destroy the nylon bearings when it passes through.
11. Before inserting the axle, use a screwdriver and hammer and place a nick in the center of the axle. This will aid the axle in gripping the hole into which it is driven and prevent it from loosening and falling out. Now place the axle into the axle hole and tap it in with a hammer.
12. Replace the anti-friction washer, neoprene bumper and stop nut on each stud. Simply hand tighten these. You can adjust them to suit your ringer when the bell is together.
13. Bell reassembly...Place the handguard, handle, lockwasher, and cap screw on to the casting and holding these, turn the bell over and insert the spacer bushing. The small hole next to the threaded hole in the bottom of the yoke block is the index pin hole. Start to screw the yoke onto the cap screw with the hole opposite the index pin. Turn the yoke assembly down until you feel the index pin lock into the index hole. Now retighten the bell cap screw, and adjust the stop nuts and you're ready to ring! But remember, adjust nuts down only as far as needed to keep the clapper from resting on the casting. (Any further adjustment only puts strain on the spring).